As I hiked the final few miles of the Sandria Mt. range nearing the completion of this journey, my thoughts went back to that first week in Arizona and the many obstacles and challenges I’ve faced over the past 7 weeks. I felt so blessed to have had this opportunity to see this part of the country and share the stories of travel with all those interested. I feel that this trail in particular thoroughly tested my mental and physical will power, and in doing so, has once again taught me what we are all capable of. The body is bound only to that of which the mind sets limits upon. If we can only first tear down the barrier that fear has erected, what we can achieve is endless. Furthermore, to do these things in connection with a “higher Source of our understanding”, the extent of our own liberation can inspire others to follow their own unique Divine Path. Having said that, I leave all those with this simple phrase:
“Don’t Ever Be Afraid to Live Life the Way It Is Received”.
Now for talk of Cougar and Bear tracks, Snow Storms, and Divine Appointments!!
I pushed out of Soccora walking a levee road along an irrigation channel and took an easy day where I stopped at a local park for what I made my own authentic Siesta, with a plate of tacos from a traveling food truck. I must say, these were better than most of the Mexican food I’ve eaten along this trail. I then pushed on bypassing a “Ford” of the Rio Grande River, and into a thicket of large Cottonwoods to avoid the extremely windy conditions for a good nights rest.
It would be well needed. The following day, the wind must have been 40-50 mph, and pretty much sustained throughout the day. Of course on these days, it’s lots of mileage across completely flat terrain. I must say that when the wind never stops, and there’s no where you can go to get a break, it really can drive you rather mad. I remember comparing the constant gusts to a Chinese water torture as well as yelling at it to stop with some colorful language. It was May 1st and the temperatures were pretty chilly all day as well. As I hiked North, I came closer and closer to a darkening sky. Then 1 snow flake drops, then another, within 20 minutes, it was an all out snow fall with blizzard like conditions. No accumulation, but snows blowing all around rather heavy for close to 2 hours. For the first time on this hike, I had to whip out the poncho. Luckily, it stopped just as I reached NM 127. From here I road walked for about a mile, then continued using a map, compass and a distant railroad as a navigation point across private land into a large drainage, which lead to a wind free night of camping and some good shut eye.
The next morning greeted me with calm air flow and a bit warmer temps. As I hiked into the massive “Sand Canyon” on my way into the amazing Manzano Mt. Range. As you enter from the trailhead parking area off of Forest Road 422, you can’t miss all the flyers stating this is Cougar and Bear Country. Number one on the Cougar Warning, “Don’t hike alone” check.
Number one on the Bear Warning, “Be sure to hang you food at night”, check.
In approaching this range, you can see the towering 10,000 ft. cliffs; still snow covered in sections and it can be rather intimidating knowing that’s where I’m going to be climbing to. To be honest though, you sort of look down and see the dirt and scratches on your legs, you smell the sweat on your clothes and body, and those things actually offer you some comfort in knowing what you’ve already accomplished, how far you’ve come, and remind you of the fact that these woods, you’ve called home for the past 6 weeks.
The climb was of really nice grade, 3,000ft. over 5 miles. On certain facing slopes, the large pines were actually flocked with snow and ice. They looked beautiful; however wind gusts were knocking the trees clean, so you had to be careful what you were hiking under. I had seen more snow here remaining on the high slopes than anywhere on the trail thus far. I camped along a ridge that night facing the sunset and can remember waking up in the morning and seeing a caterpillar completely frozen from the night temps. I picked him up and moved him onto a rock that the sun was beaming on through some trees. Within 10 minutes or so he was moving around again. Interesting to think what state they are in while frozen for that long a time.
Anyway, that day of hiking was filled with incredible views, loads of Turkey, Bear, and Fox and yes, even Cougar tracks.
Funny, because you could see when the bear would stop and rub up against trees.
I had planned on filling up with water at Oyo Spring, which is on my water guide chart, the author did mention how it is a very hard spring to find, he was right. I bushwhacked a bit in the proper location with no success. After a half hour of no luck, I had no choice, as day light was quickly dwindling and I was completely out of water, to fill my water bottles with simply snow. One thing I’ve learned about snow though, it just doesn’t melt nearly as fast as you’d think and eating snow will only get you so far before you mouth gets numb. Snow is also gassy and will make you burp, I reckon because of the high air content.
So, I spent the night with both my containers between my legs in my sleeping bag. I would wake up periodically thirsty and look with anticipation as to how much snow had melted and would make for an ice cold gulp or two. Bottom line, I made out just fine, thirsty, but fine. By the next morning almost all the snow had melted as I began my 7 miles trek to the next water source.
And now here is where a shift occurs, a shift in consciousness, a shift in the natural flow of things, and one can begin to see the guiding hand that opens us up to the idea that there is more to this all than just thirsty nights, setting up camp, sore feet and walking from Phoenix to Albq..
As I hiked on to the next water source in anticipation, the Crest Trail that I was following entered a vague area of overgrown Oak and Shrub. Due to an abundance of old stock trail and a lack of new trail markings, I found myself well West of where I needed to be.
I looked back in the North East direction I should have been on and it seemed like 2 miles of thick, prickers and bushes to reach the area I needed to be in. As I bushwhacked back, I followed what I thought to be the trail, considering there was flagging and discernable trail, but I find myself down in a steep gully, and the trail and flagging just stop?
Frustrated, thirsty, and thinking about how much time I’ve wasted, I began the very steep hike up and out the drainage wall, overgrown with small birch and loads of limbs that just want to whack you every chance they get. Exhausted, I finally make it up to the crest once again and back onto the correct trail. During this time though, I must admit to the frustration that goes on in your head. However, while remaining in that connection, I become reminded by the Divine that all things happen for a reason. Within this fit of frustration and exhaustion, I’m reminded, Relax, this is happening now to set up something later. At this moment, my thoughts are comforted with faith and I must now keep myself open to what life has to offer.
I push on and descend off the crest to a wonderfully clean and cold spring with a well needed break.
As I continue hiking, I “miss” the turn my route has me taking, and proceed to a trail head parking area where I see the opportunity to get rid of some of the trash I’d accumulated over the past 5 days or so. There in the parking lot is a truck with a park ranger in it. He sees me and comes out to talk. Patrick Luna is his name. He tells me I’m the first hiker he’s seen or talked to this season. I tell him, he’s the first person I’ve seen in a few days. Pat and I talked for maybe an hour and a half about everything under the Sun. The conversation started with Geology and fossils, lead to his heritage as a Native American and that connection to the land that is being lost, and ended with much testimony and how the Lord is dealing with the natural world. Mr. Luna carried a deep, inner peace that became almost tangible as he picked up butterflies at will. Much reflective personal truth was shared amongst two strangers. I cherished this opportunity and to think, what brought us together?
Now, the next 10 miles of trail had me hiking through various Indian reservations and private land grants. It clearly states on my map, proceed at your own risk, the GET does not endorse this following route. As Patrick put it, you’ll probably be fine, because of the remoteness of your path, but if for some reason someone does see you on their land, it’s going to end bad for me. Not that they’re bad people, but it’s just that so much has already been taken from them, they just can’t be willing to give anymore. Particularly the Chilili people, not the land you want to get discovered on. Not thinking I had any other choice I went back into woods although, not comfortable with the trek that was to come. Not out of fear, but out of respect for their land. I looked over the map again to see if there was something I was missing, another route, a bypass of some kind. Sure enough I could take FR 55 to the town of Tagique, then North on NM 337 to Tijeros, and back to the trail. So, that’s exactly what I decided to do. As I hiked back to the road and began the 7 miles east before I headed North, I came across two men, one on a Dirt Bike and another in an SUV talking. We get into conversation, one thing leads to another and Gerald, another great guy gives me a ride to Tagique before the general store closed at 8pm, and then the guy he was talking to, Nick, a Turkey hunter from Albq., gives me a ride the rest of the way, right back to the trail head, just 2 days hike from finishing. I must say they were both really a huge help, because from Tagique back to the trail was actually 30 miles, not the 12-13 I had estimated. We drove, on public roads, through the town of Chilili, and basically there were signs stating that we are a souvereign nation and we govern ourselves, keep out.
So, the conversation with Nick was great, another person of faith, and as he drops me off, in the parking lot we had a quick prayer session. Thank you Nick for the blessings and travel thoughts. I hope I had something to offer you as well, beyond just the bag of Doritos. Now dark, I hike just a short distance and set up camp, finally a warm night made for eating and relaxing outside of my tent.
There was much shared and learned with my meetings with these 3 gentlemen. These are people and situations I would never had experienced if I woke up that morning and hiked the accurate trail with no problems. Once again, I’ve become a part of the process of experiential learning and have come to understand, it is not about us and our plan, rather, “Thy Will Be Done”, and it’s about God’s plan. Therefore, why worry? One needs to just give (him/her) the steering wheel completely, rather than holding on tight with two hands, or even having some faith, but still sort of driving with one hand on the wheel.
The following day I got up feeling spiritually renewed. I began the final climb into the Sandria range which was once again very well graded. After 5-6 miles, I got my first view of Albq… That night I cowboy camped on a Westerly cliff’s edge and watched as the sun set upon this great city, with a crescent moon perched high above. And then, this morning I woke up and pushed the final 5.6 miles to the Sandria Arial Tram ride down the Mt. to the Eastern Terminus of the Grand Enchantment Trail. I was done. Now what?
Well, I sat down and ate a great meal, with 3 cokes, and decided to call someone I met on my 3rd day of hiking, Ron Vaughn, an avid hiker who, well, name a trail and he’s hiked it at least once, probably twice. An older gentleman who back in AZ said if you make it to the end, then give me a call, Ron lives in Albq. and knows how hikers can always use a ride somewhere. So, Ron joined me for lunch and sure enough gave me a lift to not the airport per say, but rather to the Budget Car Rental where I’ve decided to rent a car and travel for one more week.
My journey now finds me for the next week driving west to see the Grand Canyon, then heading north into Utah to visit Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, Escalante Staircase, the Arches, Moab, and then East into Colorado through the Rocky Mt. National Park. My trip will find me right back here in Albq. for a return flight home for some time with friends and family to laugh and reconnect.
I feel blessed to have experienced the last 2 months. I’d like to thank everyone who has followed this trip once again, my parents for all their help with mailing boxes and encouraging support. All the people I’ve met, not just on this trip, but on the AT, PCT, and just in life, for the inspiration to “Live Life the Way its Received”. And most importantly, the Holy Spirit for Divine Guidance throughout this entire journey. And one last person, Mr. Brett Tucker, the creator of the Grand Enchantment Trail. Although there may have been times I’ve cursed him for making me hike through what? I must say I’m a better man for having hiked this hike.
In about 8-10 days I’ll have the remaining pictures up of the New Mexico section, as well as some time lapse photography I had taken early on. I think you’ll be interested to see this and I hope it comes out great. For those not familiar with time lapse photography, be sure to check it out.
Peace and Blessings
Love and Light
“Nothing says time to reflect like a sunset”
